Đavolja varoš

Đavolja varoš, or Devil's Town, is a haunting and unusual natural monument in the Kuršumlija region of southern Serbia, consisting of 202 erosion pillars — locally called dvoglavi, meaning two-headed rocks — that rise between 2 and 15 metres above the dark volcanic soil of a secluded valley. The pillars were formed by the interaction of volcanic andesite rock, the mechanical erosion of two small rivers that still flow through the site, and the severe continental climate of the region, a combination of freeze-thaw cycles, wind and running water that continues to sculpt the formations today, meaning the pillars are not static relics but slowly changing features of a landscape that remains geologically active.

The pillars are grouped in two distinct clusters separated by a small valley through which the River Jordan flows, its dark water threading between the volcanic rocks and cutting through fine alluvium deposited from the surrounding slopes. The two rivers that created the site — the River Jordan and its tributary — emerge from underground springs at the head of each cluster and disappear again into underground channels within the karst geology, giving the valley an uncanny quality in which water appears and vanishes without obvious explanation. The surrounding hills are covered in scrub and old oak forest, and in spring the valley floor is bright with wildflowers, making the pillars' dark silhouettes — weathered into shapes that resemble sleeping figures, mushrooms and hooded monks — even more striking by contrast against the green and coloured background. Local tradition gives each formation a descriptive name — the Camel, the Mushroom, the Hooded Monk — reflecting the anthropomorphic quality of the weathered rock that has inspired awe and unease in visitors for centuries.

The site was declared a natural monument of exceptional importance by the Serbian government in 1959 and was placed under state protection, with additional protected status in 1976 extending the boundary to cover the surrounding valley and watershed. A visitor centre, a clearly marked circular trail with interpretative signs in Serbian and English, and footbridges over the two rivers now make the site accessible to visitors, and a gravel road connects it to Kuršumlija, 27 kilometres to the north. The region around Kuršumlija contains other significant historic sites, including the ruins of the medieval Church of Saint Peter and Paul — one of the oldest in Serbia, dating from the 10th or 11th century — and the thermal springs at Banja, making Đavolja varoš the focal point of a growing regional heritage itinerary that combines natural wonder with medieval history.

The formations are monitored by geologists and the site is included in academic curricula as an example of ongoing erosional processes in volcanic karst terrain, making it both a scenic attraction and a living laboratory for the study of landscape evolution in the Balkans.

It is one of the most visually striking geological monuments in the Balkans, unlike any other natural formation in Serbia or the wider region.

The site demonstrates active geological processes — the pillars are not ancient relics but ongoing formations shaped by the same forces that created them.

The combination of dramatic natural monument, active monastery nearby and regional historical sites makes it the centrepiece of a rich itinerary in southern Serbia.