Dzaoudzi and Petite-Terre

Dzaoudzi and Petite-Terre are the oldest landforms in Mayotte, exposed volcanic cores that once formed the heart of a large shield volcano before the surrounding flanks and caldera collapsed into the lagoon that now surrounds them. From the air the two islands read as a pair of dark rocky hummocks connected by a white causeway, the larger Petite-Terre rising to around 90 metres and the smaller Dzaoudzi somewhat lower, both covered in scrub and forest that contrasts sharply with the pale flat coralline islands that make up most of the rest of the archipelago. The setting in the middle of the lagoon is striking: on a clear day the islands appear to float in an expanse of shallow turquoise water, and the approach by boat from Mamoudzou is one of the most memorable short passages in the Comoros.

The fort at Dzaoudzi is the most substantial historical structure on the islands, built by the French in the mid-nineteenth century as part of the fortification of the eastern approaches to the lagoon and now partially restored as a heritage site. The stone walls enclose a small compound with former barracks buildings, a powder magazine and the remains of a jetty that once served as the primary anchorage for the island. The fort is not large or architecturally exceptional, but its position on the tip of a small peninsula gives it a commanding view of the lagoon channel and the surrounding water, and the interpretation boards inside describe the history of the French administration of the island from first settlement to the present day with more candour than most colonial heritage sites attempt.

The airport on Petite-Terre is the only commercial airport serving Mayotte and its existence shapes everything about the two islands. The runway occupies a significant proportion of the land area of Petite-Terre, and the airport terminal and associated infrastructure form the main commercial zone of the islands, with hotels, restaurants and car rental offices serving the steady flow of visitors who pass through on their way to and from mainland France and the other islands of the Indian Ocean. The noise of aircraft is a constant presence on Petite-Terre in a way that is easy to underestimate before landing, and the combination of the rocky volcanic landscape with the sound of jets and the modern airport infrastructure creates an atmosphere unlike any other part of Mayotte.

The administrative capital of Mayotte was moved from Dzaoudzi to Mamoudzou on the main island in 1977, but the legacy of Dzaoudzi's former status is visible in the old colonial buildings, the former government offices and the mature trees that line the approach road from the airport causeway. The town has a different character from the villages on the main island: the streets are laid out on a grid rather than following the organic pattern of rural Mahorais settlements, and the buildings include a number of nineteenth-century stone structures that would not look out of place in a small French provincial town. The market in the centre of Dzaoudzi is smaller and less chaotic than the main market in Mamoudzou but offers a similar range of goods, including the spices and dried fish that form the backbone of local cuisine.

The beaches on both islands are rocky rather than sandy, reflecting their volcanic origins, but the water at the margins is clear and the marine life in the nearshore zone is richer than on the coralline west coast of the main island. The southeastern coast of Petite-Terre in particular has a number of small coves with good snorkelling close to the shore, and the dive operators based in Dzaoudzi offer trips to offshore sites that are considered among the best in the lagoon. The combination of historical interest, the unique volcanic landscape and the proximity of the airport makes Dzaoudzi and Petite-Terre a necessary stop for most visitors to Mayotte, even those whose primary interest is the natural environment of the main island.

The fort at Dzaoudzi is the primary historical monument of Mayotte, offering a tangible connection to the island's colonial period and the story of French administration from the nineteenth century to the present.

The two islands provide the clearest exposure of Mayotte's volcanic basement geology in an accessible location, visible from the causeway and from the walking trails that cross both islands.

The nearshore marine environment around both islands is richer in species than the more accessible west coast sites, and the dive and snorkel sites off the southeastern coast of Petite-Terre are among the most highly rated in the lagoon.